Azelaic acid can help in improving multiple skin conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma, and redness. In addition, it can be combined with other skincare ingredients like retinol or niacinamide without any issues.
In this post, you will find everything about azelaic acid – its benefits, side effects, usage, pilling issue, and what to look for when buying azelaic acid products.
What is it?
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid that is naturally produced by fungi which is part of the normal flora of our skin – Malassezia furfur. It can be obtained from some grains as well like wheat, barley, and rye.
In comparison to alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids, azelaic acid does not need any acidic pH. It works best close to the skin pH which makes it easy to tolerate.
Benefits
Azelaic is a multitasker and can do several things for our skin. This includes:
- Reduces skin inflammation.
- Decreases redness.
- Can kill acne-causing bacteria.
- Fades dark spots.
- Helpful for melasma.
- Improves skin texture by preventing the build-up of dead skin cells.
- Protects skin from free radicals.
- Makes skin less sensitive over time.
Azelaic acid can benefit several skin concerns. In addition, it plays well with many other ingredients so can be easily included in the skincare routine.
Acne
Azelaic acid prevents hyperkeratinization, which means that it will prevent the thickening of the top dead layer of the skin which is called stratum corneum.
Plugging our pores with dead skin cells is one of the causes of acne. Since it prevents the deposition of layers of dead skin cells, it can decrease acne breakouts.
It has antibacterial properties so it can kill the acne-causing bacteria. Also, one does not have to worry about antibacterial resistance as with some topical antibiotics.
It has anti-inflammatory properties which can benefit inflammatory acne.
Hyperpigmentation
Azelaic acid can be beneficial for all types of hyperpigmentation.
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation occurs due to any injury or trauma to the skin. It can also occur after acne breakouts.
- Melasma is a common skin condition that leads to symmetrical dark patches on the face. It is usually triggered by hormones and sun exposure.
Azelaic acid inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase which makes melanin pigment. This can help in getting rid of hyperpigmented patches.
Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory can also benefit hyperpigmentation.
Since most skin types can tolerate it well, it can be a great option for someone with sensitive skin.
Rosacea
Rosacea is a skin condition associated with inflammation, flushing, papules, and pustules on the face. Azelaic acid has potent anti-inflammatory properties which makes it very beneficial for rosacea.
It can decrease papules and pustules, decrease red marks, decrease swelling by easing inflammation, and improve the orange peel texture associated with rosacea.
Acne scars and marks
Acne can often leave behind acne marks commonly, sometimes referred to as blemishes. These can be of two types:
- Red marks or post-inflammatory erythema.
- Dark brown marks or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Azelaic acid can help in the faster fading of both these marks.
By fading these marks, the acne scars can also become less noticeable. In addition, the anti-keratinizing property of azelaic acid can improve the texture of the skin.
Side effects
Azelaic acid can lead to some side effects especially when you start using it. It includes:
These side effects usually decrease over time. However, if they don’t improve or worsen, one should stop using a product or consult a doctor
How to use
Azelaic acid is considered safe to use once or twice daily. When you first start using it, use it every day once or once on alternate days.
As your skin adjusts to it, you can use it twice daily. It is a great antioxidant so you can benefit from it during the day as well.
When to use it in the skin routine will depend a lot on the formulation.
- If the formula is thin, watery, or lotion-like, it’s best to use it after washing your face and then moisturize your face.
- If the formula is thick, use it after moisturizing.
- If you are new to azelaic acid and experience dryness and other side effects, you can minimize this by using it after moisturizing.
- Be cautious about using it with exfoliating acids like glycolic acid and salicylic acid.
- If your skin is more tolerant and you want to use it with acids, it’s best to use azelaic acid after exfoliating acids as it will help it penetrate better into the skin.
Pilling
Pilling refers to balling up of skin care products when you are applying them on the skin. You may experience piling with azelaic acid products. Some products will pill more than others. To minimize it:
- Use a pea-sized amount.
- Do not rub for too long.
- Wait between applications of different skin care products.
- Use on moisturized skin.
Who should use it
Azelaic acid is best for someone with:
- Acne
- Acne marks
- Melasma
- Hyperpigmentation
- Erythema or redness
- Rosacea
If you have any underlying inflammatory skin condition like atopic dermatitis or any other form of eczema, it’s best to consult a doctor before using this.
How long does it take to work?
In most cases, it will start showing effects in 6-12 weeks. However, it also depends on the skin condition treated, the frequency of use, and the strength of the formula.
In some cases, it might take longer than 12 weeks before showing effects.
- Prescription-strength topicals may start showing effects faster.
- For acne, it alone might take longer to show effects. In most cases, it is used in conjunction with other acne medications.
- Hyperpigmented spots can give faster results when used with other ingredients for dark spots.
Buying guide
A lot of products these days use a new derivative of azelaic acid called potassium azeloyl diglycinate. This is a water-soluble form that is much easier to formulate. In addition, it is considered easier to tolerate.
However, this form has fewer studies and research behind it. Personally, I find azelaic acid much more effective than potassium azeloyl diglycinate.
1. Look for the form
As already mentioned, many products are labeled as azelaic acid serum but have potassium azeloyl diglycinate. So, make sure to check the ingredient list and see which form is used.
2. Look at the concentration
To get benefits from azelaic acid, choose a formulation with at least 5% azelaic acid. If the formula doesn’t mention the exact percentage, take a look at the ingredient list and see if it’s in the top 5 ingredients.
Many products are labeled as azelaic acid products but when you check the ingredient list, it’s far down on it.
3. Look for essential oil and fragrance-free formulation
In some cases, people using azelaic acid may have red sensitive skin. So, in these cases, it’s best to avoid products with essential oils and fragrances.
Explore More
Azelaic acid is such a wonderful ingredient and anyone can benefit from including it in the skincare routine. Check out my 10 best azelaic acid products list.
References
- Del Rosso JQ, Baum EW, Draelos ZD, et al. Azelaic acid gel 15%: clinical versatility in the treatment of rosacea. Cutis. 2006;78(Suppl 5):6–19.
- Thiboutot D, Thieroff-Ekerdt R, Graupe K. Efficacy and safety of azelaic acid (15%) gel as a new treatment for papulopustular rosacea: results from two vehicle controlled, randomized phase III studies. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2003;48:836–845.
Disclaimer: This blog post is for information purposes only and does not replace medical advice.