Dark circles are a common cosmetic issue, and their color can vary depending on what is causing them.
Purple under-eye circles are often due to blood vessels or genetics; blue or bluish-green under-eye circles are often due to poor circulation or congestion; brown under-eye circles are due to hyperpigmentation; and black under-eye circles are due to structural causes.
The skin under the eyes is very thin and delicate and can often appear discolored due to various causes. This can lead to the appearance of dark circles under the eyes. In some cases, these may be accompanied by dark upper eyelids.
The color of the dark circles can vary – blue, purple, brown, black, and so on. Depending on the causes, dark circles can be classified into 4 main types: pigmented, vascular, structural, or mixed.
However, often we describe dark circles with a particular color. This post is all about giving you the specifics about the different causes associated with different colors of under-eye dark circles.
1. Brown under-eye circles
Brown under-eye circles are often due to hyperpigmentation, which is frequently caused by excess melanin pigment. Melanin is a pigment that gives color to our skin. It is made by a type of cell called melanocytes.
These dark circles come under the pigmented type of under-eye dark circles.
Excess melanin pigment formation is often triggered by the following reasons:
- Sun exposure: UV rays and visible light can trigger hyperpigmentation.
- Melasma: A chronic condition that leads to dark patches on the face. Hormones are thought to play an important role in it.
- Post-inflammatory pigmentation (e.g., eczema).
- Medications such as prostaglandin analogs used for glaucoma, hormone pills, heavy metals, certain antibiotics, etc.
- Genetic predisposition.
- Frequent rubbing of eyes.
Treatment options
There are several ingredients that can work for brown under-eye dark circles, however, it may take a long time to see improvement. In some cases, one may not see any visible results.
The ingredients to look for are hydroquinone (should be used under the guidance of a doctor), retinoids, niacinamide, arbutin, kojic acid, licorice extract, and vitamin C.
When choosing a moisturizer look for ones that are rich in oils with linoleic and alpha-linolenic acid (Vitamin – F) as they can also aid in improving hyperpigmentation. In resistant cases, procedures like lasers and chemical peels may be helpful.
Other measures
- Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen every day.
- Include iron oxides in your morning skincare routine – either as a tinted sunscreen or a makeup product. (Iron oxides can protect the skin from visible light).
- Wear sunglasses without any metal (Metal can get heated up and can transfer the heat to the skin. This can trigger hyperpigmentation).
- Do not rub your eyes.
- Be gentle when doing skincare or makeup around the eyes.
2. Blue under-eye circles
Blue or bluish-green under-eye circles are often due to prominent blood vessels, poor circulation, or congestion. These come under the vascular type of dark circles.
The possible causes include:
- Allergic shiners (congestion and pooling of blood due to congestion of sinuses).
- Lack of sleep: Sleep deprivation can make the complexion appear pale and under eye vessels prominent.
- Thin skin under the eyes: The skin under the eyes can thin with aging which can make the underlying structures like blood vessels visible, giving a bluish appearance.
- Iron deficiency anemia: It can make the complexion pale and can also decrease the oxygen-carrying capacity of the blood. So, the blood gives a blue hue instead of red.
- Smoking: Smoking can age the skin and can disrupt sleep patterns. It can also decrease oxygen supply.
- Dehydration.
Treatment options
A cool compress can shrink the blood vessels and can also decrease any swelling. Caffeine, often found in many depuffing eye creams, can also shrink the blood vessels and make them less prominent. Alternatively, one can use tea bags as tea has caffeine.
Retinoids are derivatives of Vitamin A which can increase the thickness of skin and can increase collagen production. This can make the blood vessels less obvious. Vitamin K can also be beneficial due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing properties.
If topicals don’t work, lasers which target blood vessels and fillers may be helpful.
Other measures
- Protect your skin from the sun and use sunscreen daily.
- Be gentle with your skin.
- Avoid salty foods.
- Treat your allergies and avoid known allergens.
- Do not smoke.
- Cut down on alcohol.
- Stay hydrated.
- Eat a balanced diet.
- Sleep well.
3. Purple under-eye circles
Purple under-eye circles usually occur due to blood vessels or genetic causes. Most of these come under the vascular type of dark circles.
The possible causes include:
- Prominent blood vessels.
- Thinning of the skin.
- Leaky blood vessels (the blood cells can leak out and leave behind byproducts like hemosiderin leading to purple discoloration).
- Genetics.
- Trauma (can lead to bruising which appears as purple patches).
Treatment options
The treatment options are pretty much similar to blue under-eye circles. Cool compress and caffeine can shrink the vessels and reduce swelling. The effects are temporary and may last for a few hours.
Retinoids and vitamin C can increase collagen production making the blood vessels less apparent. Vitamin K is an antioxidant that can be beneficial for leaky blood vessels.
Topicals may not work for everyone and you may see faster results with procedures done in a doctor’s office like lasers to zap blood vessels and fillers.
Other measures
- Always protect your skin from the sun and use sunscreen.
- Be gentle with your skin.
- Stay hydrated.
- Eat a balanced diet.
- Sleep well.
4. Shadowed or black under-eye circles
Shadowed or black under-eye circles come under the structural type of dark circles. There is no true pigmentation of the skin but the shadow effect or hollowness, which leads to a dark appearance of the under-eye area.
The possible causes include:
- Aging leads to skin laxity and loss of collagen.
- Fat loss around eyes.
- Weight loss.
- Deep tear troughs (groove between lower eyelid and cheek, near the nose).
- Genetics
- Eye bags
- Swelling around the eyes (swelling can cause a shadow effect).
Treatment options
Shadowed under-eye dark circles cannot be treated with topical treatments. Your doctor will likely recommend procedures like fillers, blepharoplasty, autologous fat transplantation, etc.
Other measures
- Use sunscreen daily to protect the skin from the sun.
- To prevent puffy eyes, reduce intake of salty foods and elevate the head by using a thick pillow at night.
- Eat a balanced diet full of antioxidants.
- Sleep well.
Read more: Best eye creams for dark circles
Key points
Dark circles under the eyes can occur in various shades like brown, blue, purple, or black/shadowed. Each color is often due to different causes. In some cases, dark circles can be improved with topicals, however, it may take a long time to see results.
Shadowed under-eye dark circles are unlikely to improve with topicals and will require a procedure done in a doctor’s office.
References
- Vrcek I, Ozgur O, Nakra T. Infraorbital Dark Circles: A Review of the Pathogenesis, Evaluation and Treatment. J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2016 Apr-Jun;9(2):65-72. doi: 10.4103/0974-2077.184046. PMID: 27398005; PMCID: PMC4924417.
- Goldman A, Goldust M, Wollina U. Periorbital Hyperpigmentation—Dark Circles under the Eyes; Treatment Suggestions and Combining Procedures. Cosmetics. 2021; 8(2):26. Link: https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/8/2/26
- Park KY, Kwon HJ, Youn CS, Seo SJ, Kim MN. Treatments of Infra-Orbital Dark Circles by Various Etiologies. Ann Dermatol. 2018 Oct;30(5):522-528. Epub 2018 Aug 28. PMID: 33911473; PMCID: PMC7992473.
Disclaimer: This blog post is for information purposes only and does not replace medical advice.