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What is Retinol and What does it do for Your Skin?

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Retinol is a trendy ingredient found in many skin care products. In fact of all the retinoids, retinol is the most common retinoid which you can buy over the counter. 

It is not as strong as prescription-strength retinoids like tretinoin but it does benefit our skin and in comparison causes lesser irritation. Just like all the retinoids, retinol has some adverse effects but using it the right way can minimize these effects.

What is retinol?

Retinol is a synthetic derivative of Vitamin A. It falls in the first-generation group of retinoids and has been known for quite some time. It is found in many skin care products ranging from serums, and moisturizers to oils. It comes in different strengths. Some brands give the exact percentage of retinol in their product and some don’t.

What does it do?

Retinol is not in the active form. 

Once you apply a retinol skincare product to your skin, it is absorbed by the skin cells. Inside these cells, it is converted to retinoic acid by enzymes. This is the active form that affects the genes responsible for cell differentiation. 

So, it results in an increase in the turnover of our skin cells. In a way, all the dead skin cells slough off faster.

This results in thinning of the top dead layer of skin which is called stratum corneum. This gives a smooth appearance to the skin, pores look more refined and improves texture. 

Graphic showing how retinol works and the various skin benefits.

This also prevents the plugging of our pores by dead skin cells, which is one of the causes of acne. In addition, as more oxygen enters the pores, it prevents the growth of bacteria Cutibacterium acnes which can cause acne.

Increased turnover of cells can also result in quicker removal of pigment from our skin fading dark spots and improving hyperpigmentation. Retinol can also affect the formation of the enzyme tyrosinase. This enzyme is what makes melanin pigment in our skin. By decreasing its formation, it can improve dark spots.

It prevents the breakdown of collagen due to exposure to UV rays and increases the production of collagen. This can improve fine lines and wrinkles.

It can increase the production of glycosaminoglycans which can hydrate our skin giving it a plump appearance. It also has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

Benefits

Every age can benefit from the use of retinol. It can help our skin in several ways:

1. Decrease acne breakouts

Retinol can benefit acne in a number of ways. It can prevent the plugging of pores by dead skin cells. It can prevent the growth of Cutibacterium acnes, which can cause acne. Its anti-inflammatory properties can benefit acne as well.

2. Improve fine lines and wrinkles

Collagen is the main structural protein in the dermis which provides strength. In our 20s, collagen production decreases by 1% every year. Retinol can increase collagen production in our skin and at the same time, it can protect collagen by preventing its degradation.

Retinoids have a lot of evidence when it comes to their benefit for aging skin. So, if you want to invest in just one ingredient for antiaging, definitely go for retinol. You can easily get it from any online or physical store. 

3. Help in fading dark spots

By increasing cell turnover and decreasing the formation of melanin pigment, retinol can give you a brighter complexion. In addition, it can stimulate the formation of new blood vessels in the dermis giving a pink glow. 

4. Improve the texture of the skin

By getting rid of dead skin cells, retinol can give a smooth appearance to the skin. By increasing the thickness of the epidermis and dermis, the texture can look a lot better as well.

5. Refined appearance of pores

By sloughing off dead skin cells, retinol can make pores look more refined.

Precaution

If you are pregnant or are trying to become pregnant, it is best to avoid all topical retinoids including retinol. It falls in Category C which means we don’t have enough data if it’s safe so on the side of caution, it’s best to avoid its use. For more information, talk to your healthcare provider.

Side effects

Retinol can lead to several adverse effects:

  • Irritation
  • Redness
  • Dryness
  • Peeling skin
  • Burning

This is often referred to as retinol burn or retinol uglies. This is a transition phase and as the skin adjusts to retinol, it improves. However, there are several ways to avoid retinol burn or peeling. 

If the symptoms become worse, it’s best to decrease the frequency of retinol use and use a thick nourishing moisturizer to counteract the drying effects of retinol.

If you don’t see an improvement in the symptoms or it becomes worse, it’s best to see a healthcare provider.

How to use

Taking baby steps when starting retinol can help you avoid the retinol uglies phase.

  • Start with a lower concentration formula. 
  • Start by using every other day or every third day to avoid chances of irritation. 
  • Use a thick moisturizer with it.
  • Do not use multiple products with retinol.
  • Use alongside niacinamide – niacinamide can help in tolerating retinol better.
  • Avoid exfoliating acids like glycolic acid, lactic acid, and salicylic acid.
  • Avoid ascorbic acid serums – the acidic pH of these serums can cause irritation.
  • Use sunscreen every single day and reapply as necessary.

Summary

Retinol is a very easily available over-the-counter retinoid. It comes in all ranges of price. So. you don’t have to spend a lot to try it.

Research suggests it is an effective ingredient for aging, dark spots, and acne. Though it is not as strong as prescription-strength retinoids (tretinoin), you can still benefit from using this.

If you are not happy with your results, contact your dermatologist to see if prescription retinoids or other alternatives are a good option for you. 

Further reading

References

Disclaimer: This blog post is for information purposes only and does not replace medical advice.

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