Retinol is a hero ingredient for tackling multiple skin problems. But there are so many questions on how to use it. In addition, it is often confused with other similar ingredients.
Below you will find some facts and frequently asked questions about retinol.
Basics
What is retinol?
Retinol is a vitamin-A derivative that you can often find in over-the-counter skin care products meant for aging, dark spots, or acne.
Once applied to the skin, retinol is converted to the active form, retinoic acid. This active form increases the turnover of the skin cells and gets rid of layers of dead skin cells. This can improve the texture of the skin and help in improving multiple skin concerns.
What is the difference between retinol and retinoid?
Retinoid is the name of the big group and it includes all different kinds of vitamin-A derivatives (both prescription and over-the-counter) like retinol, retinal, tretinoin, tazarotene, trifarotene, adapalene, and so on.
Retinol is a type of retinoid that is available over the counter. It is less potent than prescription-strength retinoids.
Benefits
What skin problems does retinol treat?
Retinol can result in the improvement of several skin conditions. These include:
- Acne
- Dark spots
- Melasma
- Wrinkles
- Photoaging
- Uneven skin tone
Usage
At what age should you start retinol?
If you want to start retinoids for preventative care, meaning you don’t have any fine lines but you want to decrease the chance of its appearance – the early 20s can be an ideal time to start retinol.
How much retinol to use?
One should use a pea-sized amount of retinol serum or treatment product for the whole face. Using more than that will not give faster results but can cause redness, dryness, and irritation.
Who should not use retinol?
If you are pregnant or you are trying to get pregnant, you should not use retinol.
If you have an active flare of inflammatory skin conditions like rosacea, or atopic dermatitis, you should not use retinol. It’s better to contact your healthcare provider for a proper treatment plan.
How often should you use retinol?
Ideally, you can use your retinol treatment product every day. However, some people have sensitive skin and cannot use it daily. So, using even a few times a week (2-3 times) may benefit the skin.
Can you put moisturizer over retinol?
Yes, for sure. You can wash your face, let it dry, or wait for 20 minutes and apply a pea-sized amount of retinol on your face. Wait for 5-10 minutes and apply your moisturizer.
Which is better – Retinol before or after moisturizer?
It depends on the individual’s skin type. Retinol can be used both before or after a moisturizer and it will still be effective.
Before moisturizer: This is best for someone who has more tolerant skin or is already used to retinol. Wash your face, dry it, and apply retinol, wait for it to dry or just wait 5-10 minutes and apply your moisturizer.
After moisturizer: This is a better choice for someone who is just starting the retinol journey or someone who has sensitive skin. Wash your face, and apply a moisturizer while your skin is still damp. Let your face dry completely and then apply a pea-sized amount of retinol.
Can you use retinol around the eyes?
Yes, but you have to be careful. The skin around the eyes is thinner and much more sensitive than the rest of the face. So, apply a thin layer of moisturizer and then apply your retinol.
This will prevent retinol side effects. In addition, you can choose a lower-strength formula to use around the eyes or a specific retinol-based eye cream or product.
Can you use retinol in the morning?
Retinol is very sensitive to light and can become ineffective when used during the day. However, with new technologies coming up, there are some forms of retinol that do not degrade when used during the day such as stabilized retinol.
Since the skin’s repair system works best at night during our sleep, it might be a better time to use retinol.
Effectiveness
How to tell if retinol is working?
It might be hard to track progress and sometimes changes are so subtle that you will think nothing is happening. The best way is to take close pictures of the face every 3 months and track your progress.
In addition, retinol is very sensitive to air and light, so make sure to choose a formulation from a reputable company. It gives some reassurance that you are using an effective product.
How long does it take to see results with retinol?
Overall, it can take 3-6 months before you will start to see results. In some individuals, it might take up to 12 months before seeing results.
Results will also depend on what you are trying to achieve. Someone with very fine lines may see results faster as compared to someone with deeper wrinkles.
Don’t include multiple retinol products or use more than a pea-sized amount of retinol. You won’t see results faster, but it increases the chances of skin barrier damage.
Studies documenting retinol effects:
- In one study (2009), a stabilized 0.1% retinol-containing moisturizer led to significant improvement in fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, firmness, and overall photodamage in 8 weeks.
- In one study (2015), retinol (0.1% formulation) led to a significant reduction of facial wrinkles in 12 weeks. The results were evaluated by doing skin imaging and skin biopsy.
- In one study (2019), a retinol-containing formulation led to an improvement in neck and eye wrinkles (crow’s feet) in 8 weeks.
Side effects
What does retinol purge look like?
Retinol leads to an increase in the turnover of cells. This results in the moving of acne which is deeper in the skin onto the surface.
So, you will see some increase in acne breakouts. This is purging. These breakouts tend to occur in the same areas in which you normally break out.
Why do my wrinkles look worse after retinol?
When you start using retinol, there is a phase when you experience dryness, peeling, and irritation. During this phase, your wrinkles and the texture of your skin can look worse.
However, as time goes by, these side effects decrease. Your skin will look plumper and more hydrated with the improvement of photodamage.
Myths
Can retinol damage or ruin your skin?
Most over-the-counter retinol formulations are not as strong as prescription retinoids so are much better tolerated. However, they can still lead to side effects like dryness and redness. To avoid these, start slow and make sure to moisturize your skin.
In addition, if you have any underlying skin condition like eczema, rosacea, etc., it’s best to talk to a dermatologist to make sure you are the right candidate for retinol. They can help you in choosing a gentle formulation.
To avoid an allergic reaction to a formulation, pick a product free of fragrance and patch test before using it on the face.
Does retinol thin the skin?
No, retinol doesn’t make your skin thin. It only thins the topmost dead layer of skin which is stratum corneum. In fact, it increases the overall thickness of the epidermis and dermis.
Comparison
Which is better: Retinol or Vitamin C?
So far, there is no study that directly compares these two skincare ingredients. However, using them in the skincare routine can complement each other.
Vitamin C can protect your skin from the damaging effects of free radicals during the day and vitamin A can repair your skin at night.
Disclaimer: This blog post is for information purposes only and does not replace medical advice.