Blackheads, or open comedones, can be managed by adjusting your skincare routine and incorporating ingredients such as retinoids and salicylic acid. Learn more about using these ingredients effectively, as well as other helpful ingredients, things to avoid in your skincare routine, and professional treatments for blackhead removal.
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What are blackheads?
Blackheads are a type of acne that occurs when the pores of the skin become clogged with dead skin cells and sebum, an oily substance produced by the skin. They are open on the surface, which is why they are called open comedones. They often appear as black dots on the skin, particularly on the face, including the nose, chin, and forehead.
The dark color of blackheads is not due to dirt but is a result of the oxidation of the pore contents when exposed to air.
Blackheads are a non-inflammatory type of acne, and the surrounding areas are not red or inflamed, unlike inflammatory acne lesions such as papules or pustules.
What causes them?
Several factors contribute to the formation of blackheads:
- Excess oil production: Overactive sebaceous glands can produce too much oil, leading to clogged pores.
- Dead skin cells: Accumulation of dead skin cells on the surface of the skin can block pores.
- Hormonal changes: Hormonal fluctuations, especially during puberty, menstruation, pregnancy, and menopause, can increase oil production.
- Diet: Some studies suggest that certain foods, like high-glycemic foods, may worsen acne.
Blackheads vs. Sebaceous filaments
Blackheads are often confused with sebaceous filaments, which can also appear as dark dots, especially on the nose. Sebaceous filaments are normal structures of the skin that help channel the flow of sebum through the pores.
Compared to blackheads, sebaceous filaments are lighter in color, often appearing as tiny, gray, or yellowish dots on the nose and cheeks. Additionally, sebaceous filaments are usually flat, while blackheads often appear as slightly raised bumps on the skin.
Sebaceous filaments are not a form of acne and do not require treatment. However, their appearance can be improved. Sebaceous filaments may be improved by treatments similar to those used for blackheads.
Things to do to get rid of blackheads
1. Wash your face twice a day
While this is not true for everyone, if you have excessively oily skin, washing your face twice a day in the morning and evening is important for removing excess oil, dirt, and impurities that can clog pores and lead to blackheads.
It’s important to choose a gentle cleanser to avoid stripping away all the natural skin oils and causing skin barrier damage. When washing your face, use lukewarm water and apply the cleanser with gentle, circular motions. Rinse thoroughly and pat dry with a soft towel. Moisturize while your skin is still damp.
2. Wash your face after working out
Exercise is great for your overall health, but sweat and oil produced during a workout can mix with dead skin cells and clog pores. To prevent this, it’s best to wash your face as soon as possible after exercising.
3. Moisturize
Moisturizer is often thought of as non-essential for someone with blackheads. However, in reality, moisturizing your skin can help with the skin’s natural exfoliation process. Drying out your skin will only exacerbate the buildup of dead skin cells. So, always use a moisturizer as per your skin’s needs.
For oily skin, choose a lightweight moisturizer with humectants like hyaluronic acid or glycerin, which can provide hydration without clogging pores. You can use an oil-free moisturizer if you prefer or use a moisturizer with light-feeling oils rich in Vitamin F (linoleic and linolenic acids), such as grapeseed oil or safflower oil.
4. Use salicylic acid
The best chemical exfoliant for blackheads is salicylic acid. It can exfoliate dead skin cells and unclog pores. The special thing about salicylic acid is that it is lipid-soluble, so it can exfoliate inside the pore, making it perfect for getting rid of blackheads.
How to use it? It’s important to use salicylic acid with caution, starting about two to three nights a week, to avoid over-exfoliation. You can use different forms of products depending on your skin sensitivity.
- If your skin is very sensitive, try a wash-off form. For example, use a face wash with salicylic acid, leave it on for around 3-5 minutes, and then wash it off.
- If your skin is more tolerant, you can use a leave-on form such as a toner or essence based on salicylic acid.
Other exfoliants such as glycolic acid may exfoliate the surface of the skin, but they don’t clean out the inside of pores like salicylic acid does.
5. Don’t skip sunscreen
Sun protection is crucial for overall skin health. The sun can lead to premature aging and can damage the supporting structure of the skin, worsening the appearance of large pores and blackheads.
Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher every day, even on cloudy days, and reapply as necessary.
6. Consider using retinoids
Retinoids, derivatives of vitamin A, can increase cell turnover and, in turn, unclog pores and improve and prevent blackheads. There are many different types of retinoids, and some are available over the counter.
Although not as strong as prescription retinoids like tretinoin, they can be a good starting point. Of all the over-the-counter options, adapalene 0.1%, available as Differin, is one of the most effective. This was once only available by prescription but is now available over the counter in the US. You can also see a dermatologist if you’re considering using prescription-strength retinoids.
How to use them? Start by using a few times a week and gradually increase the frequency as your skin adapts to avoid irritation. Make sure to moisturize your skin as well.
Here is a full article on how to start using retinoids.
7. Sulfur may help
Sulfur is such an underrated ingredient, but it can be useful for a variety of skin conditions such as dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, perioral dermatitis, rosacea, and even acne. It can help with the buildup of dead skin cells and hence improve blackheads.
You can sometimes find it in clay masks, or there are standalone products with sulfur, such as De La Cruz Sulfur Ointment. Make sure to moisturize when using this ingredient, as it can be drying.
8. Try niacinamide
Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, has multiple benefits for the skin. It can reduce the appearance of pores, reduce inflammation, and improve the skin’s texture and skin barrier. All these factors can help improve blackheads. You can include niacinamide in the form of a serum or moisturizer.
9. Limited use of clay masks with caution
Clay masks with bentonite and other absorbent materials can absorb surface oils. However, they can also be harsh on the skin when used too frequently or in conjunction with chemical exfoliants.
If using them, do so with caution and sparingly. Opt for masks that also include moisturizing ingredients to balance dryness and always moisturize following these masks.
10. Take a look at your cosmetic products
While there are products that can improve blackheads, it is also important to check your other skincare products and cosmetics.
Long-wear makeup products and some haircare products can sometimes exacerbate acne. Dyes and coconut oil or its derivatives can aggravate blackheads in some individuals.
11. Give it some time
Blackheads do not disappear overnight. You need to be consistent with your skincare routine and give it some time to see results. For stubborn blackheads, it’s best to get professional help.
What not to do when treating blackheads
1. Pore strips
Pore strips can provide temporary satisfaction by removing the top layer of blackheads, but they can also irritate the skin and strip away essential oils.
They don’t help with the underlying cause of blackheads, so they tend to come back fairly quickly. Using pore strips too frequently can lead to more harm than good. It is best to stay away from them.
2. Scrubs
Harsh scrubs with rough particles can irritate the skin and cause barrier damage. They may not even help with removing blackheads. It is best not to waste money on them.
3. Don’t squeeze blackheads
Squeezing blackheads can push the blockage deeper into the pore and cause inflammation. It’s not the best way to get rid of them.
4. Extraction
In addition to squeezing, avoid trying to extract blackheads at home, as this can lead to scarring and infection. It’s best to leave extractions to dermatologists, who use sterile tools and proper techniques.
5. Lemon and baking soda
Home remedies like rubbing lemon or using baking soda masks can do more harm than good. They may disrupt the skin’s pH balance, leading to irritation and more skin problems.
For example, baking soda has a high pH, and putting it straight on the skin can lead to skin barrier damage. It’s better to leave baking soda for baking.
6. Suction or pore vacuum devices
Blackhead suction devices may seem tempting, but it’s better to stay away from them. They can traumatize the skin, leading to bruising or even telangiectasia (these appear as red lines on the skin).
Professional treatments
If you do not see improvement with over-the-counter treatments, you can consult a dermatologist for professional help. The treatment options for blackhead removal include:
- Prescription medications: Prescription-strength retinoids like tretinoin and tazarotene can be more efficient in clearing and removing blackheads.
- Extraction: This involves the manual removal of blackheads using specialized tools. Dermatologists can safely extract these lesions, helping to prevent scarring and further inflammation.
- Chemical peels: Chemical peels use various acids at a higher strength to exfoliate the skin, promoting cell turnover and unclogging pores. They can improve the appearance of pores and reduce blackheads.
- Photopneumatic therapy: This treatment combines an intense pulsed light (IPL) laser with a gentle vacuum. It helps in removing excess oil and dead skin cells and unclogs pores.
Preventative tips
While it is not always possible to avoid blackheads, the following tips may help in preventing them:
- Maintain a consistent skincare routine: Regular cleansing, exfoliating, and moisturizing can prevent the buildup of dead skin cells and oil.
- Sun protection: Always use sunscreen, even on rainy and cloudy days.
- Use products according to your skin needs: Choose skincare and makeup products that suit your skin type, and check the ingredients to avoid any problematic ones for your skin. Avoid harsh products such as scrubs and alcohol-based toners.
- Eat a healthy and balanced diet: A diet rich in fruits, vegetables, and lean proteins can support overall skin health.
Takeaway
Blackheads are a common type of acne that can be managed with a consistent skincare routine and lifestyle adjustments. It’s important to be gentle with your skin and avoid harsh treatments that can worsen these open comedones.
If over-the-counter products don’t seem to improve the blackheads, consider consulting a dermatologist for professional advice and treatment options.
Read more: Dilated Pore of Winer (DPOW): Large Blackhead-Like Lesion
Disclaimer: This blog post is for information purposes only and does not replace medical advice.