The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% is an effective and affordable option for reducing redness and brightening the skin. Read the detailed review of The Ordinary’s azelaic acid for information on its ingredients, texture, pros and cons, as well as comparisons with other azelaic acid products.
I have tried a lot of azelaic acid products in the last few years. Every product has its own different texture and most of these don’t have the usual watery serum texture. I think that is the reason why I like some azelaic acid serums more than others and use them depending on what time of day is and how my skin is feeling.
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% is such a well-loved product that I had to try it.
My skin
Dry cheeks and oily T-zone with rosacea and few patches of hyperpigmentation.
What the brand says:
“Multifunctional brightening formula.“
Ingredient list
Azelaic Acid 10%
Aqua (Water), Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Dimethicone, Azelaic Acid, Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl Ppg-20 Crosspolymer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysilicone-11, Isohexadecane, Tocopherol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Isoceteth-20, Polysorbate 60, Triethanolamine, Ethoxydiglycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.
Ingredients explained
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% is a simple formulation focused on azelaic acid. It is rich in silicones. If you take a look at the ingredient list above, dimethicone is way high on the list.
Dimethicone can function as an emollient (filling any gaps) and an occlusive (decreasing the transepidermal water loss). It can also temporarily fill in the fine lines and small scars giving a smooth appearance to the skin.
If you see the ingredient list of a gel moisturizer meant for oily skin, very often you will find dimethicone in the ingredient list (usually in the top 5 ingredients). This product is free of any fragrance or dyes.
Azelaic acid is the star ingredient in this formulation. Don’t be alarmed this is not an alpha or beta hydroxy acid (like glycolic or salicylic acid) which needs a lower pH of around 3 to work. Most azelaic acid products are formulated at a pH of around 5. Let’s talk a little bit about it.
Azelaic acid
It is a dicarboxylic acid that is found in some grains, can be synthesized by a yeast (Malassezia furfur) living on our skin, and can also be made in a lab.
It was first developed for acne. However, due to its inhibitory effect on the enzyme (tyrosinase) which makes the melanin pigment, it is used to treat hyperpigmentation disorders like melasma as well. In addition, it can benefit almost all skin types, even the most sensitive ones.
This ingredient can benefit our skin in multiple ways:
- Antibacterial: Azelaic acid can kill the bacteria (Cutibacterium acnes, previously known as Propionibacterium acnes) which can lead to acne. In addition, you don’t have to worry about resistance as seen with some topical antibiotics.
- Anti-inflammatory: It reduces inflammation which can be beneficial for acne, and various inflammatory skin conditions like rosacea.
- Prevents hyperkeratinization: Azelaic acid prevents the buildup of excess keratin on the skin. This can prevent the formation of acne bumps and give a smooth appearance to the skin.
- Helpful for hyperpigmentation: Azelaic acid competitively inhibits the enzyme (tyrosinase) which forms melanin pigment in the skin. Oxidative stress can also lead to hyperpigmentation, and since azelaic acid is an antioxidant, it can further help even out the skin.
The best part is that it is safe to use during pregnancy. A lot of pregnant women struggle with acne and hyperpigmentation and this can be a perfect solution for that.
Texture
The Ordinary azelaic acid suspension 10% comes in tube packaging. You can easily control how much you want to use. It comes out as a thick cream gel, so it doesn’t spread very easily. To cover the full face, I usually use a big pea size. It doesn’t have any added fragrance but it does have a smell (I don’t mind it, it is not bad).
It can cause pilling and that is the one limitation that makes me turn to other azelaic acid products like Finacea. It works best if I use this as a final layer.
If I try to apply anything over it, especially any product heavy in oil, it pills. Silicone-rich products work well over it (at least for me). Thankfully, I never had any graininess or azelaic acid crystallization with this product.
How to use it as per the brand?
“Apply to face AM and/or PM to improve visible brightness and the appearance of skin texture. Avoid contact with eyes and mouth. Use sun protection during the day. If irritation occurs, cease use and consult a physician.“
Under the regimen guide on the official website, they recommend alternate use with other Direct Acids, Pure/Ethylated Vitamin C, and Retinoids.
When and how to use it
I don’t like the silicone feeling during the day, so I usually use the Ordinary azelaic acid suspension in the evenings. I wash my face, apply my moisturizer while my skin is damp, and then follow with the Ordinary azelaic acid suspension.
You can use it before moisturizing as well, but when I do that, I feel that my moisturizer just sits on top doing nothing. Applying after moisturizer might also be a good idea if you are new to azelaic acid.
In addition, if I have an event to go to on a hot humid day, I use this as my primer. Believe me, it keeps my makeup where it was. No patchiness or smudging. However, try to use a silicone-heavy foundation with it. An oil-based foundation may or may not work well with it.
Sometimes when my skin is very dry and sensitized, I use it as a 15-minute mask. This helps significantly in reducing redness without causing dryness. Because it’s so affordable, I don’t feel guilty about washing it off. I probably wouldn’t do that with Finacea, which is ten times the price.
To summarize, The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% can be used both before or after moisturizer. If you’re new to this ingredient, proceed with caution. It can cause some dryness and itchiness
How to minimize pilling
- Use as little as possible, pea size is enough to cover the whole face.
- Do not rub for too long.
- Use over moisturized skin.
- Limit the number of skincare products in your routine (too many layers can lead to pilling).
- If your product is rich in silicones, pair it with silicone-rich fellow skincare products.
Using azelaic acid with other ingredients
Azelaic acid can be used with most ingredients including retinoids. The only issue is increased irritation. You have to make sure your skin is used to azelaic acid before including retinoids in the same routine. Otherwise, you can end up with a lot of irritation and skin barrier damage.
You can also use them separately: azelaic acid in the morning and retinoid in the evening or azelaic acid and retinoid in alternate evenings.
Related Post: How to start a retinoid without irritating your skin?
Results
I don’t know why and due to which ingredient, this causes a cooling sensation when I just put it on. You know, the first time I used it, I rechecked the ingredients to make sure it didn’t have menthol or its derivative.
Rest assured, it doesn’t. Within an hour or so of using this, The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% can tone down a lot of redness if my rosacea is flared. It can make me look ghostly pale and the silicones in this can temporarily hide uneven skin texture.
Can you imagine my happiness with that, someone with rosacea looking pale? The reduction of redness is immediate but over time it also smoothens my skin, reduces the size of any red bumps, and helps with pigmentation. This thing works, no wonder it is a staple for so many people.
Value for money
The Ordinary Azelaic acid suspension 10% is such an effective product and on top of that it is so affordable. This is the cheapest azelaic acid product I know of, which works magic. Your money will be well spent! It comes in two sizes: 30ml for $7.90 and 100ml for $22.50.
Pros and cons
Pros
- Gives visible results
- Can act as a makeup primer
- No graininess (issue with some azelaic acid products)
- Very affordable and widely available
Cons
- Heavy silicone feel
- Can interfere with the application of other skincare or makeup products
Will I buy it again?
Yes, I always have one in my cabinet.
Where to buy?
Check for price and availability:
Summary and score
Review Rating: 4.7/5
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% is an azelaic acid product that comes in a thick cream-gel texture. It effectively reduces redness and brightens the skin. However, it may not pair well with heavy creams due to its texture.
Comparison with other azelaic acid products
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% Versus Finacea
Finacea is a prescription azelaic acid (15%). It is called a gel, but it has more of a cream-gel texture (I have tried both Finacea and generic azelaic acid gel, and they have a very comparable texture and finish).
In comparison to the Ordinary azelaic acid suspension, Finacea is not that thick and is easier to spread and form a thin layer on the skin. I never had any pilling issues with Finacea. This is the most effective product for me to reduce the red bumps and smooth the skin texture. Over time, it reduces redness as well.
However, the Ordinary azelaic acid suspension reduces redness almost immediately. If you are in the US, the price will depend on your medical insurance (I usually get it for $60 – $80).
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% Versus Dr. Sam’s Flawless Brightly Serum
The main difference in both these products is the texture. The Ordinary azelaic acid suspension is a thick cream-gel texture that is hard to spread while Dr. Sam’s Flawless Brightly serum is like a thin lotion that spreads easily. Both of these give visible results on my skin.
Dr. Sam’s Brightly serum has other beneficial active ingredients like niacinamide, bakuchiol and ascorbyl glucoside. But for some reason, Ordinary azelaic acid is more effective in reducing redness immediately.
Another big difference is the price: Dr. Sam’s Brightly serum retails for $59/30 ml and the Ordinary azelaic acid suspension retails for $7.9/30 ml.
In addition, I never had an issue of graininess with the ordinary (see my detailed review of Dr. Sam’s Flawless Brightly serum here). Both can cause pilling, though Dr. Sam’s Brightly serum causes more pilling on my skin. The Ordinary azelaic acid suspension is more widely available as compared to Dr. Sam’s Brightly serum.
For me, both are effective and are part of my routine.
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% Versus Azclear
This is another azelaic acid product that I was really excited to try but for some reason, it never suited my skin. It caused irritation every time I tried. Maybe my skin cannot handle such a high concentration of azelaic acid (20%).
But anyway, Azclear is an affordable choice that has a higher percentage of azelaic acid (if that’s what you are interested in). The texture is of a lotion but still, it doesn’t spread as easily as Dr. Sam’s Brightly serum but it’s a little better than the Ordinary azelaic acid suspension.
It can pill if used too much or with rich moisturizers. This is not widely available in the US and the price will vary depending on where you buy (anywhere from $13/25 gm and above).
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% Versus Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic acid booster
In comparison to the Ordinary azelaic acid suspension, Paula’s Choice Azelaic acid booster has a thin lotion-like texture and spreads easily. Due to the inclusion of salicylic acid, I find it more drying than other azelaic acid products.
I have used this in the past, mainly for treating red bumps on my chin. It shrinks them overnight. I never had crystallization of azelaic acid issue with Paula’s Choice azelaic acid booster. Also, I never used it on my whole face so cannot comment on pilling. Paula’s Choice azelaic acid booster retails for $38/30ml.
Azelaic acid products in my routine
Azelaic Acid products that I always keep in my collection: Finacea, Dr. Sam’s Flawless Brightly serum, and the Ordinary azelaic acid suspension.
How do I use these products: Finacea and the Ordinary azelaic acid suspension in PM and Dr. Sam’s Flawless Brightly serum in AM.
This came out as a rather long post and I hope it helps guide you to choose an azelaic acid product.
Disclaimer: The ingredient list/ price is subject to change over time, so make sure you check them before buying any product.