Dr. Sam’s Flawless Brightly Serum is a thin, watery serum that reduces redness and brightens skin. It features a combination of powerful ingredients such as azelaic acid, niacinamide, ascorbyl glucoside, and bakuchiol. Read on for a detailed review of Dr. Sam’s Flawless Brightly Serum, along with information about its ingredients.
My skin
I have rosacea-prone combination skin. The redness on my skin has toned down a lot in the last few years but I still get flare-ups every now and then, but they are much easier to manage. I have hyperpigmentation on my cheeks from using harsh skincare for years.
What the brand says
“Your daytime warrior for complexion brilliance. It evens out skin tone, calms bumps + clears pores, and makes the light love your skin.”
Ingredients
Full ingredient list
10% Azelaic Acid, 5% Niacinamide, 2% Ascorbyl Glucoside, 1% Bakuchiol
Aqua (Water), Azelaic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Cetearyl Olivate, Bakuchiol, Sorbitan Olivate, Benzyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Dehydroacetic Acid
The ingredient list of Dr. Sam’s Flawless Brightly Serum is simple and sweet as compared to many serums which have more than 50 ingredients. It is easier to identify any potential irritant in such a product.
Another thing to note is that it doesn’t have any glycol like butylene glycol or propylene glycol. Now I don’t have any issues with glycols. They are great ingredients – the perfect solvent for many active ingredients, however, some people specifically look for products without them (either due to sensitivity or just a personal preference).
It has multiple actives at an effective concentration. Concentration is not the only thing that matters. The product needs to be well formulated and deliver results. So, every ingredient counts. It is free of any added fragrance.
Let’s talk about some of the notable ingredients:
1. Azelaic acid
Azelaic acid is such an underrated ingredient. It is an antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant that inhibits melanin formation and decreases hyperkeratinization (thus decreasing comedone formation). It can be beneficial for acne, hyperpigmentation, erythema, and some inflammatory skin conditions like rosacea.
Such a versatile ingredient! Most skin types can adjust to this ingredient pretty well. It might take some time so don’t rush into it (some people experience itching when they first start using an azelaic acid product).
2. Niacinamide
Dr. Sam’s Flawless Brightly serum has niacinamide at an effective conc. of 5%. This is enough to give all the benefits of niacinamide without irritation. Nope! You don’t need a separate serum with a super high concentration of niacinamide.
This ingredient is well known to improve the skin barrier, naturally increase ceramide levels in the skin, reduce redness and inflammation, and provide anti-aging benefits. It can also prevent the transfer of melanin pigment from melanocytes to the skin cells.
So, it can target acne, hyperpigmentation, post-inflammatory erythema, aging, rosacea, and other inflammatory skin conditions. It is a lot to get from one single ingredient.
3. Ascorbyl glucoside
This is a sugar derivative of ascorbic acid. It is considered more stable and gentler on the skin. It doesn’t have as much evidence as ascorbic acid. However, once applied to the skin it can be absorbed and converted to ascorbic acid. It can prevent UV damage, reduce pigment formation, and can promote collagen synthesis.
4. Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol is NOT retinol. It is a purified extract mainly found in the seeds of the Indian plant Psoralea corylifolia (babchi). It is considered as a natural alternative to retinol.
It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging benefits. It can help with hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the enzyme (tyrosinase) which makes the melanin pigment in our skin. When compared with retinol, the data is far less.
In two studies (study 1 and study 2), bakuchiol – used twice/day, and retinol – used once/ day were compared (at a concentration of 0.5%). Both bakuchiol and retinol were equally effective in reducing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.
Always look for bakuchiol in the ingredient list and not just babchi extract. The studies mentioned above used the extract – bakuchiol.
Texture and application
Dr. Sam’s Flawless Brightly serum comes in a white opaque pump packaging. When I first started using this, I had to pump a few times to get the product flowing. After that, the process is smooth.
It comes out as a light lotion. The consistency is thin, and it spreads easily, so I don’t have to use a lot – usually just half a pump. Even when I use it both morning and evening, one bottle lasts me 45 to 60 days.
Though the texture is of a light lotion, surprisingly it dries down matte. So yes, you will need a moisturizer with it as it can be drying. It is fragrance-free and it doesn’t smell of anything (I like that).
When I first started using it, I thought it might irritate my skin. However, it is gentle enough that I could use it twice daily. Importantly, since my skin is used to azelaic acid, I never had an adjustment period with it. If you are new to it, definitely introduce it slowly, using it a few times a week.
This is what Dr. Sam Bunting suggests:
“Start with a 1/2 pump amount all over, every other day, avoiding eyes and lips. Build up gradually to 1 pump daily.”
The thing I don’t like is that sometimes azelaic acid forms crystals in it and it feels harsh almost like a scrub. This mostly happens in winter months and it happened with only a few of my orders. I am not sure what’s the reason: extreme cold weather or something in the formulation.
Azelaic acid is a difficult ingredient to formulate and I had the same issue of graininess with some other azelaic acid products as well.
I reached out to Dr. Sam’s customer service (sometime in February of 2021) regarding this issue. According to them, this happens due to extreme temperatures during transit. The high levels of azelaic acid get crystallized.
Also, they said that the product remains active. I was advised to warm the product gently – ideally in a warm water bath for 30-50 minutes (this won’t damage the serum).
Honestly, I tried what they recommended but it didn’t help. They did send me another replacement bottle but it had the same issue.
The other occasional issue is pilling. What works for me is – using on damp skin (please don’t use on damp skin if you are new to azelaic acid) or moisturized skin. In addition, I only use half a pump.
If I use more, it pills. Pilling cannot be specifically pinpointed to one product. There are so many things that can cause it. So, this may or may not pill on your skin.
Results
I did not test this product just for a few weeks or months. I have used Dr. Sam’s Flawless Brightly serum for over a year and that clearly tells you that it does some amazing things to my skin. It tones down the redness on my cheeks and nose. It also helps with the hyperpigmentation I have on my cheeks.
I think both azelaic acid and niacinamide are behind the redness-fighting power of this serum. I don’t have a lot of wrinkles so I cannot tell if this product has anti-aging benefits (due to the inclusion of bakuchiol). However, bakuchiol is a great antioxidant and wrinkle fighter as per some studies so it’s a bonus to have it in the routine.
Dr. Sam’s Flawless Brightly Serum can actually be a great option for anyone who cannot tolerate retinoids but is dealing with redness, acne, and hyperpigmentation. This is one of my favorite products for hyperpigmentation.
Value for money
Dr. Sam’s Flawless Brightly serum retails for $59/30ml – official Dr. Sam’s website. Now that looks expensive, but you are getting your niacinamide serum, azelaic acid serum, and bakuchiol serum in one bottle. So, overall, it’s not a bad deal. The best part is its effects are visible and it spreads easily so you don’t need a lot of it.
Pros and cons
Pros
- A lightweight formulation that spreads easily
- Combination of multiple actives in one product
- Delivers results – Helps with redness and pigmentation
Cons
- Sometimes azelaic acid forms crystals in it, making it difficult to use.
- Pilling on some occasions
- Little pricey
- Not widely available
Will I buy it again?
I have and I will! This is a single product with multiple ingredients which works really well for me. In addition, the formulation is very lightweight. The best part is it gives me visible results. So why not?
Where to buy?
Check for price and availability:
Alternatives
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%: This can be a great option if the main ingredient you are looking for is azelaic acid. This has 10% azelaic acid in a silicone base. For this reason, it can act as a great matte makeup primer. The price is unbeatable as well – $7.9 for 30ml and $22.5 for 100ml. If you don’t like the feel of silicones, this might not be for you. Read more in this post: The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% Review and Comparison Analysis
Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster: A great alternative with a thin lotion-like texture. It has 10% azelaic acid and 0.5% salicylic acid. It also has some skin-soothing ingredients like licorice extract, adenosine, allantoin, and bisabolol. The 30ml tube retails for $38.
Summary and score
Dr. Sam’s Flawless Brightly Serum is a 4 in 1 powerhouse serum with azelaic acid, niacinamide, ascorbyl glucoside, and bakuchiol. The thin consistency of this serum makes it easy to spread on the skin and layer with multiple products.
Review Rating: 5/5
Disclaimer: The ingredient list/ price is subject to change over time, so make sure you check them before buying any product.