A serum, toner, or essence can be a great way of adding specific ingredients to target inflammation in the skin, decrease Malassezia, and enhance skin barrier function if you are dealing with seborrheic dermatitis.
But so many moisturizers (read this post on moisturizers for seborrheic dermatitis) also have these ingredients so the serum is not a necessary step of the skincare routine unless you want to add it to your routine. There are fewer chances of skin reactions if your skincare routine is simple.
Ingredients to look for
These are not any new ingredients but the same goodies commonly found in many skincare products – azelaic acid, salicylic acid, niacinamide, Centella, and licorice are a few to name.
Most of these can be safely used just after washing face on the damp skin. But there are times you have to be cautious when using some ingredients.
- High concentrations of niacinamide can cause burning, stinging, or redness in people with skin barrier disruption. So if you experience any of these use a product with a lower concentration of niacinamide or skip this ingredient.
- Azelaic acid can cause itching, dryness, and stinging. So start with a lower concentration, use over moisturized skin or if your skin cannot handle it, just skip it.
- Salicylic acid is a great ingredient to help with inflammation or the build of dead skin cells but at the same time, it can be extremely drying. Personally, I find even the lower concentration drying. I rather use it in a wash-off product like face wash or I use a serum or toner, leave it on for a couple of minutes, and wash it off. But everyone’s skin is different so you have to see what works best for your skin. Also using it just a couple of times a week is enough to get the benefits. Skip it if it causes excessive irritation.
Note: Make sure to use a good moisturizer if you use any product that has dryness as a side effect.
Best picks
So, let’s jump on to some of the best serums or toners that you can add to your routine to help manage seborrheic dermatitis.
1. The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
This is a great product that can be used in several ways. You can apply it like a serum just after washing your face or you can use it over a moisturizer. It can also act as a perfect makeup base.
It has dimethicone, a silicone, very high in the ingredient list giving it a thick silicone feeling. Some people experience pilling with this, but applying it to well-moisturized skin can decrease that. It is very calming and soothing and effectively reduces redness.
Read More: Full Review of The Ordinary Azelaic Acid 10% Suspension
Pros
- Very soothing and reduces redness
- Perfect makeup base
- Affordable
Cons
- Thick silicone texture
- Occasional pilling
- Can be drying
Full ingredient list
Aqua (Water), Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Dimethicone, Azelaic Acid, Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl Ppg-20 Crosspolymer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysilicone-11, Isohexadecane, Tocopherol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Isoceteth-20, Polysorbate 60, Triethanolamine, Ethoxydiglycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
2. Dr. Sam’s Flawless Brightly Serum
This serum has multiple actives and it can be used just once or twice a day depending on the skin type. It has 10% azelaic Acid, 5% niacinamide, 2% ascorbyl glucoside and 1% bakuchiol.
Azelaic acid and niacinamide form a great anti-inflammatory duo. In addition, all these actives are great antioxidants.
However, you have to be careful when starting with this product – start slow if you are not used to azelaic acid. I have gone through multiple bottles of this and it is effective in reducing redness.
It has a very light texture, however, it can pill and occasionally you will see some crystal formation.
Read More: Full Review of Dr. Sam’s Flawless Brightly Serum
Pros
- Light texture
- Multiple actives to decrease inflammation
Cons
- Can pill
- Occasional crystal formation
- Can be drying
Full ingredient list
Aqua (Water), Azelaic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Cetearyl Olivate, Bakuchiol, Sorbitan Olivate, Benzyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Dehydroacetic Acid.
3. Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
If your skin is more tolerant, this can be a great addition to your routine. It has 10% azelaic acid and 0.5% salicylic acid: two powerful anti-inflammatory ingredients. Both these ingredients can also help with the rough texture and flakiness.
It has a beautiful light texture and it doesn’t pill (many products with azelaic acid cause pilling). I find it somewhat drying so make sure to amp up your moisturizer game with this.
Pros
- Combination of salicylic acid and azelaic acid
- Light texture
- Minimal Pilling
Cons
- Can be drying
Full ingredient list
Water, Azelaic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Salicylic Acid, Adenosine, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol
4. Acwell Licorice pH Balancing Advanced Serum
This is a serum with multiple soothing and barrier-enhancing ingredients. I love such a product because it cuts down the need to layer multiple products. My skin loves licorice and niacinamide and this product has both of them.
In addition, it has multiple skin-loving ingredients like oat extract, beta-glucan, and adenosine. If your skin is dry or sensitive and cannot handle azelaic acid or salicylic, this is a wonderful product to consider.
Pros
- Light texture
- Multiple soothing ingredients
Cons
- None
Full ingredient list
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Polyglycerin-3, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Water, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Carbomer, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Disodium EDTA, Adenosine, Tromethamine, Polyquaternium-51, Sodium Hyaluronate, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Beta-Glucan, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cynara Scolymus (Artichoke) Leaf Extract, Pteris Multifida Extract, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis (Licorice) Root Extract, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Solanum Melongena (Eggplant) Fruit Extract, Glutathione, Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract
5. Glossier Super Pure Niacinamide + Zinc serum
There are not many products with a lower concentration (between 3-5%) of niacinamide. This is one such product. In addition, it has zinc PCA which can help in healing skin.
It is lightweight, spreads easily, and layers well with multiple products.
Pros
- Lightweight texture
- The optimal concentration of niacinamide
Cons
- Not widely available
Full ingredient list
Water/Aqua/Eau, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Propanediol, Zinc PCA, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Extract, Citric Acid, Allantoin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polysorbate 60, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate
6. Sukoyaka Suhada Urea Moisture Lotion
Urea can be beneficial in decreasing rough flaky patches. It is found in a few moisturizers, however, if you are looking for a lighter option – this might be it. This is a watery toner/ essence which is based on urea.
In addition, it has multiple forms of hyaluronic acid to plump skin. It can be a perfect layer under a moisturizer to add that extra hydration boost.
Pros
- Urea can enhance the skin barrier function and decrease layers of dead skin
- Multiple skin-soothing ingredients
- Hyaluronic acid can add extra hydration
Cons
- Urea can cause sensitivity/irritation in people with very sensitive skin so make sure to patch test
Full ingredient list
Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Urea, Ceramide Ng, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Tilia Cordata Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Prunus Persica (Peach) Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Water, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Citrate, Lactic Acid, Ppg-4-Ceteth-20, Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol
7. Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
This is one of my favorite products from this brand and not just me, many others love this. This is a watery super light formulation. It has minimal ingredients – just what someone with sensitive skin needs.
It is a leave-on exfoliant, however, I usually use it as a short contact wash-off mask. This way it works wonders, minimizing any drying effects. Paula’s choice has several formulations with salicylic acid but this one is my favorite.
Pros
- Very light formulation
- Can decrease inflammation and rough patches
Cons
- Can be drying
Full ingredient list
Water, Methylpropanediol, Butylene Glycol, Salicylic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Camellia Oleifera, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium EDTA
8. The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Blemish + Blackhead Serum
This is a great serum based on salicylic acid (at a concentration of 2%). In addition, it also has the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid and Zinc PCA.
This is a gel formulation but it’s not thick. It is watery and spreads very nicely on the skin. It absorbs fast and does not leave any sticky residue.
Just like Paula’s Choice salicylic acid, I use it for short contact treatment. It works great as an exfoliant and for reducing redness.
Pros
- Light watery gel formulation.
- Decreases redness.
Cons
- Can be drying.
Full ingredient list
Water (Aqua / Eau), Propanediol, Betaine, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Zinc PCA, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate.
9. De La Cruz 10% Sulfur Ointment Acne Treatment
This is such a simple formulation with just two ingredients. It is called an acne treatment but you can use it as a 5-10 minute wash-off mask. I will not leave it on the skin for too long as it can be drying.
It has the typical sulfur smell and yellow color, but it works like magic. It washes off really well as well.
The keratolytic action of sulfur helps with the flakiness and rough patches. In addition, it is easily available on multiple online stores and you cannot beat the price.
Pros
- Effective formulation
- Affordable
Cons
- Can be drying
- The smell can be an issue for some
Full ingredient list
Sulfur 10%, Polyethylene glycol.
Further Reading
- Seborrheic Dermatitis on Nose: Treatment, Causes, Symptoms
- The 10 Best Face Washes For Seborrheic Dermatitis
- Products to Avoid with Seborrheic Dermatitis
- The 14 Best Moisturizers for Rosacea and Seborrheic Dermatitis
- Skin Care Routine for Seborrheic Dermatitis
Disclaimer: The ingredient list/ price is subject to change over time, so make sure you check them before buying any product.