It has been quite some time since I last talked about my skincare routine for rosacea and seborrheic dermatitis. Let’s dive into some things that are working great for my skin right now. First, I want you to know that everyone with rosacea/seborrheic dermatitis has their own triggers, so what works for me might not work for you. Please don’t feel like you need to buy all the products I mentioned below. If you’re interested, try to get travel sizes or just stick with what’s already working for you.
Overview
AM routine: Wash face – moisturizer (1–2 pumps) – azelaic acid – wait 5 minutes – sunscreen
PM routine: Oil cleanse – second cleanse – moisturizer (3 pumps) – wait 2–3 minutes – retinaldehyde – wait 2–3 minutes – azelaic acid
Note: Not everyone can use azelaic acid twice daily or combine it with retinal. Adjusting to these actives takes time—patience and consistency are key. For some skin types, less is more, so it’s important to listen to your skin and adapt your routine accordingly.
Oil cleanser
I’ve tried many different oil cleansers, and I’ve found what my skin likes best: The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser. It’s not as robust for heavy, long-wearing makeup days, but for everyday makeup or water-resistant sunscreen days, it works well. It’s not over-stripping and doesn’t leave residue behind.
Here’s how I use it: I warm it between my fingers and apply it to my skin like a moisturizer. As I keep massaging it gently, it turns into an oil. Add some water and it turns milky and just rinse it off.
Second cleanser
When it comes to water-based or second cleansers, I want mine to be gentle but effective. Many cleansers I’ve tried are either too mild or leave behind a layer that irritates my skin. Over the years, I’ve tried different brands, and while I’ve liked some of them, my favorite is Dr. Sam’s Flawless Cleanser.
I’ve been using Dr. Sam’s cleanser almost consistently for about three years now. It’s fantastic for removing light makeup and sunscreen, and it doesn’t leave any residue on my skin. Some days, this is the only cleanser I use in my evening routine. For me, it’s unmatched, and I keep going back to it even if I try alternatives.
Once a week, I use Dermadoctor’s Zinc Pyrithione based face wash, which helps with my seb derm. (See my full review here)
Moisturizer
Having an effective skincare routine starts with finding a basic moisturizer that your skin loves. If you find that “unicorn” moisturizer, it can really be easy to adjust to actives like retinoids.
Before I found the right one for me, I used to use gel moisturizers or lightweight ones—they just weren’t enough for my skin. They didn’t provide the hydration I needed.
For the longest time, I used Avene Tolerance Extreme Cream, which worked wonderfully, but unfortunately, it was discontinued.
My next favorite from the same brand is Tolerance Control Soothing Skin Recovery Balm. Despite its name, it’s not like a balm at all—it’s more of a cream. It’s not overly thick, but it gives just the right amount of hydration. I use it both day and night, and it doesn’t feel greasy or heavy during the day. (Note: This cream does contain beeswax, so avoid this moisturizer if you are allergic to it)
This moisturizer contains shea butter, which can be a trigger for some people with rosacea or seborrheic dermatitis. However, for me, it works perfectly. I’ve never had any issues with it. It’s a bit on the pricey side, but I’ve tried many similar products with comparable ingredients, and nothing comes close to this one.
Azelaic acid
Azelaic acid is hands down the most important part of my routine. It helps reduce inflammation, and rosacea bumps and also tackles the flakiness caused by seborrheic dermatitis. I’ve been using it for years now, and I can use it twice daily all over my face without any issues. I don’t have to be overly cautious about avoiding certain areas—I can apply it near my mouth, nose, or anywhere on my face.
I stick to the prescription version because, for me, it has the best texture. I usually go for the generic version since it’s much cheaper. It doesn’t pill on my skin like some other azelaic acid products I’ve tried.
Retinaldehyde (retinal)
I’ve been using retinaldehyde in my skincare routine on and off for the past few years. I’ve tried many different brands of retinal and was using the Naturium Retinaldehyde Serum 0.1% over the past year. Recently, I switched to The Ordinary’s Retinaldehyde 0.2% Serum, and it’s now my favorite.
Before this, I didn’t experience any adjustment period with 0.05% or 0.1% concentrations from other brands. However, when I jumped straight from 0.1% to 0.2% with The Ordinary, my skin became red and slightly irritated for a week. So, I took a break for three days and then resumed using it every other day. After two weeks, I was able to tolerate it daily, and now it works perfectly for me.
The Ordinary’s Retinal serum is my favorite so far—not just because it works well, but also because it’s so affordable compared to other brands. That said, with any retinoid, you have to be careful and ease it into your routine to avoid irritation. Many people with rosacea or dermatitis may not be able to tolerate retinoids at all, depending on individual sensitivity.
Sunscreen
Sunscreen is another crucial part of my skincare routine. I think it’s one of the first topics I wrote about when I started this blog back in 2021. At that time, I discovered Evy Sunscreen, and I immediately fell in love with it. (see my full review here)
Over the years, I’ve tried other sunscreens—mainly because Evy Sunscreen can sometimes be hard to find. Unfortunately, most alternatives didn’t work well for me. They were either too drying, overly greasy, hard to reapply, left a white cast on my skin, or irritated my skin. Despite all my experimenting, I’ve always returned to Evy Sunscreen.
Currently, I’m using the Evy Sunscreen Kids Version and the Daily Defense SPF 50 Version. I love both, but the kids’ version is my favorite. It’s more economical, has minimal ingredients (no unnecessary extras), and is more water-resistant.
This sunscreen is the only one I can apply directly to freshly washed skin without causing irritation, stinging, or burning. For me, it’s an absolute must-have in my routine.
I have many sunscreens that I bought in the last few months when I couldn’t get my hands on Evy sunscreen. Most of those sunscreens I use either on my body or for reapplication on my face. The first layer of the day is almost always Evy.
Lip care
For lip sunscreen, I use Evy Sunscreen Kids Version, which works perfectly on my lips without any irritation. I also occasionally use the SVR Stick Sunscreen on my lips, though I don’t use it on my face. At night, I usually use plain old Vaseline or CeraVe ointment on my lips.
Other actives
Since introducing retinaldehyde at a 0.2% concentration into my routine, I’ve simplified my routine. I don’t really need to use salicylic acid washes or sulfur masks. Retinaldehyde helps a lot with skin texture, so I don’t feel the need to use them for now, and it also avoids the chance of potential irritation. Additionally, in the mornings, azelaic acid is the only thing I use—I don’t include any antioxidant serums.
So, that’s it! I hope you enjoyed reading it. I’d love to hear what’s working for your skin.